Dim Sum 101

Moving to NYC

2010-02-02T17:12:00.000-08:00

Well, thanks for following (if you were).

We're starting a family and heading back to our homebase in NYC to have our little babe. We leave Hong Kong with a new puppy in tow, and a slew of great memories, too.

Perhaps I'll start blogging again once I've hit on a new topic to talk about -- Life as a mom? The search for a new home? Feeding a bambino?

Many new adventures lie ahead.

Pet Dryer

2010-01-30T18:46:00.000-08:00

Check this out!

This fluffy pup is hanging out in what essentially is a small wind tunnel at our local pet groomer's. Pretty neat!

Lugard Road Loop

2009-11-15T20:31:00.000-08:00

While most people probably wouldn't consider Lugard Road around The Peak a hike, it does take considerably more effort to go around the 3.5K loop with a 3 month old puppy learning to walk on a leash.

It was the perfect destination for our first big outing. Olive got to prance among the woods and grass, something she rarely sees down in our concrete jungle. And we really enjoyed the panoramic views out over Victoria Harbor on this beautiful fall day.

Dim Sum

2009-11-06T12:35:00.000-08:00

Everybody seems to do dim sum in this town on weekends. There are the local places that have been around for ages. Families gather at the large tables, the men armed with their Sunday papers and kids with the coloring books. These meals are supposed to be leisurely affairs. A good way to connect over some baskets of food that are spread out over a couple of hours. There are also the decidedly more trendy places, too, which are also meant for groups to gather, although the noise is and carts are replaced with more ambient music and a menu to boot.

Over the past year and a half, I’ve definitely been to a fair share of places. My top three picks:

1. Shu Zhai, 80 Stanley Main Street, Stanley

Made to look like an old Beijing teahouse, this is one of my favorite places to go on the weekends. It’s probably the ambience as much as the food that does it for me at this place. There isn’t one thing here that I’ve had that I can complain about, an everything comes served on pretty pottery (see pic). The dan-dan served here is my favorite.

2. Dragon-i, 60 Wyndham Street, Central

Better known as a trendy club and restaurant at night, this place does a great all-you-can-eat dim sum by day. All the regular standards are present, so there is no need to order off the main menu which is also available. I’d suggest reserving a spot since spaces are limited on the weekends. Once inside, however, the wait staff won’t make you feel rushed, and does a good job checking in on you to make sure you’re getting your fill of dumplings and other delights.

3. Dim Sum, 63 Sing Woo Road, Happy Valley

I’ll also give a shout out to Dim Sum, my local parlor for fried and steamed goodies. Although it is short on character, it does make up for it in quality of food. The proof? There is often a long wait on weekends, so it’s good to get there early.

Wine Festival Hits Hong Kong

2009-11-01T16:46:00.000-08:00

This past weekend was the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival. We went on the last day of the event, Halloween, and it turned out to be a great night. Lots of wine to sample from across the globe, good food and even live entertainment. Hong Kong definitely needs more events like this. The proof? By the end of the night, several booths were running out of wine. What a buzz kill!

Welcome Puppy

2009-10-17T12:18:00.000-07:00

This week we got a puppy. Her name is Olive and she's just a babe at 2.5 months. This means that we'll start exploring what other dog lovers in Hong Kong do -- and there sure are a lot of them.

One of our favorite neighborhood places to date is the Three Dog Bakery. The desserts in their shop make me envious, and they sure do love their furry friends in there. The staff in there have already taken to doting over Olive ... how could I resist a place like that?

The other place that Olive and I have been visiting a bunch is the dog park. Located just under the Hong Kong Jockey Club in Happy Valley, this place is perfect for your pooch to have some off leash fun. At any time, there seems to be a dozen or so dogs there.

View dog park, happy valley in a larger map

Shanghai Old and New

2009-09-16T05:45:00.000-07:00

I can understand why people love Shanghai. It is urban, has great architecture, and is constantly evolving. Take the Maglev train into the city at 431 km/hour and you know that this is a city screaming into the 21st century fast.

I decided to meet Brian in Shanghai for the weekend. We stayed at the Jia Hotel, a hip, boutique spot that would be comfortable in any metropolitan city. And while Shanghai has all the trappings of a cosmopolitan city -- posh restaurants, upscale shopping -- there is still enough of old China that exists that makes this city a cultural destination.

By far, my favorite glimpse of Old China was a side trip we took just outside of the city to Xi Tang. This 1,700-year old water is considered the Venice of Shanghai, and it’s just as picturesque with a definitively Asian flair. We saw old stone bridges flanked by willow trees; square homes with intricate roofs decorated majestically with red lanterns; and women washing their laundry in the river – even on this cold day.

One could spend hours touring the 120 tiny alleyways of this city. Around every new corner seems to be lurking a postcard perfect picture, too. There are also great bargains to be had in the variety of shop stalls set up around the town -- look for the natively made blue and white batik goods.

Back in the city, though, you can forget that China does have a quieter side. As far as population goes, Shanghai is more than 3 times as dense as Paris, and 1.5 times more dense than New York. Older (more charming) buildings are being bulldozed at an alarming rate to make room for more high-rises and large skyscrapers, the most famous of which are on the Pudong side of the city. This is where you can see famous buildings like The Pearl Tower and The Shanghai World Financial Center, known to locals as The Bottle Opener.

After taking a bird’s eye view of the city from the top of the sky deck, we decided to spend a quieter

afternoon in the famous artist district off Moganshan Road. This enclave is home to painters, glass blowers and sculptors, with a good dash of restaurants and retail shops. It’s a great place to spend the afternoon wandering and picking up souvenirs.

We ended our long weekend meeting up with friends and taking in a leisurely brunch in The French Concession. This old area of the city has beautiful sycamore trees that line the streets and parts of it are definitely reminiscent of Europe.

It seems that you can still find balance in Shanghai. There is the culture, the sophistication, the quieter streets and alleyways. Shanghai is a city that impresses on the breadth of what it offers and what it has the potential to become.

Other fun spots we visited in Shanghai:

Spin -- great pottery boutique. I could have bought everything.

Shintori -- warehouse-sized space that serves some of the city’s most fresh, if not most avant garde, sushi.

Kathleen’s Five -- glance around at what Shanghai might have been at this restaurant/bar on top of the Shanghai Art Museum, the former Jockey Club.

Box Thai

2009-08-19T19:56:00.000-07:00

I love an excuse to try a new restaurant, and with a friend in town for business, I had a ready reason. Having read the reviews for Box Thai, I knew where we should go, too.

The place is not your average Thai restaurant. It's deceptively large and goes for a hip, modern vibe. Small intimate tables sit along the fringes of the restaurants with large communal picnic-like tables in the middle. This is a place for groups to gather. And on the cheap, too.

Appetizers, noodle dishes and curries are all moderately priced for the neighborhood. A green curry chicken was priced around $75. A good buy for a dish that was richer than most.

All in all, Box Thai is a great addition to the Wyndham restaurant area, and something a bit different than all the typical Thai SoHo spots.

Summer Vacation: Vietnam Report

2009-08-17T11:27:00.000-07:00

Vietnam wasn’t a place I was supposed to want to go to. My dad was all but avoiding the issue about my upcoming trip. But his Vietnam was worlds away from the Vietnam we visited.

To be fair, there is still plenty about the country that echoes its past. Farmers still tend to their rice paddies wearing conical hats. Hawkers sell their fresh baguettes on poles by the roadside. Fisherman hurl nets off small boats to take in a day’s catch. There is still so much village life left in Vietnam, and its refreshing to

see that it hasn’t exchanged its soul for tourist’s cash … at least not yet.

Most of the cruise operators in Halong Bay offer a two-day or three-day sail. If you have the time, go for the three-day option. On our extra day, we were able to spend it sailing on a private junk, and we even took a tour of one of the fishing villages that call the islands home. It’s worth seeing how people live in this remote part of the world. The one-room school that the students attend, the outdoor restaurant that exists solely for tourists like ourselves and the large government building -- what could they need that much space for?

Back on our tour ship, life stood in stark contrast. We had a big stateroom decked out in lacquered teak. Evening entertainment included cooking demonstrations, squid fishing and kayaking, and meals were served with white table linens. Sipping cocktails on the main deck while watching the sun set behind the cliffs was something I could have enjoyed for yet another night. But we had other places to see in Vietnam,

Our next stop was at Tam Hai island. Getting there was an adventure in itself: Plane from Hanoi to Denang, two hour car ride, followed by a boat to get us to the island. But upon seeing Le Domaine at Tam Hai, we felt as if we had discovered Paradise Island.

The resort is a quiet place set along the beach with huts placed thoughtfully spaced among the beautiful tropical forest. Days are spent lounging by the pool, kayaking down the inlets or finding shells along the beach. This was not a cultural excursion, but Le Domaine takes relaxation seriously. One of my favorite aspects was dinner. Tables are set out on the beach and meals are served with fine china and silver. Want to enjoy an after-dinner cocktail or dessert? The staff puts out a couch and sofa table by the waves for you to enjoy your final hours before bedtime.

Of course, one can only be so rested, and while Le Domaine was a much needed and appreciated pit-stop, we had one more destination in mind: Hoi An. The town is considered a World Heritage Site for being on the map since the 10th century as an important trading port in the South Asia. The Japanese once owned part of the city, which was sectioned off by the now famous Japanese bridge. Tourists can still walk over the 16th century structure and cross easily between both sections of town.

My husband and I took up residence at The Life Heritage Resort. The rooms are designed with a definitive modern palate, although the exterior oozed old-world imperial charm. But we didn’t come here for the hotel, we came to see the city.

Hoi An is a small town, but it is chock full of small arts and crafts stores and tailors who can riff off any designs you may be coveting. In truth, it’s a tourist trap. It’s a great place to walk around for the day and pick up some unique souvenirs -- we made out with some lanterns, and kitchenwares -- but it isn’t a place that you can take up residency for too long without getting bored of the hawkers and their calls.

On our second day, therefore, we visited the nearby China Beach. This long stretch of sand was perfect for strolling, and I especially enjoyed playing in the cooling waves on a day that soared close to 100 degrees outside. Yes, Vietnam is hot in summer. Hotter than any place I’ve ever been. And remember, this is not a first world country,

so air conditioning is spotty at best ... when it’s available. In fact, a walk from our sun chaise to the ocean resulted in a couple of heat blisters from the sand. It’s hot!!

Back in Hoi An, we spent our last day getting last minute adjustments to some dresses I had made and watching the comings and goings of the market. One remarkable thing is that it seems only women are in charge of the business transactions. We watched women fishing, hauling the catch and selling their vegetables. Where were the men?

There is plenty that we didn’t see in Vietnam, but that only leaves many excuses to return. Beautiful scenery, fresh food and pristine places will beckon us back soon.

Heading Home

2009-06-29T12:52:00.000-07:00

I'm heading home to the states for a month. See you in August.

Magnolia: Ongoing report of HK's private kitchens

2009-06-22T01:27:00.001-07:00

On Saturday, we went to Magnolia, another restaurant on our private kitchen list. Magnolia is different, first and foremost, because it serves Creole food. I'd be hard-pressed to name another Southern restaurant in Hong Kong. Second, when you walk into the restaurant, you are, quite literally, standing in the owner's kitchen. Lori is the head chef. She's from New Orleans and she knows how to cook up some raging Cajun.

My friends and I were there to wish a couple bon voyage. Magnolia helped us get festive by handing out some fruity cocktails and delicious appetizers. My favorite was the fried goat cheese topped with a small slice of smoked salmon. Other crowd pleasers were the pesto cheese spread and crab legs.

After those teasers, we were ready for the main course. The staff ushered us upstairs into a private dining area. Lori personally came up to tell us about the menu, and ask about any special dietary concerns. With the formalities out of the way, we were ready to get at the food. And what food there was. The meal started with a shrimp gumbo, followed by a soft shell crab served fried to perfection on top of a green salad. Then, it was on to the main course of the juiciest, sweetest ribs I've ever tasted, accompanied with potatoes, collard greens, rice and piping hot corn muffins. All of the food it served family style and there's plenty of it to go around. By the time we got to the pecan pie for dessert, many of us were popping open buttons to make room.

Magnolia is hands down the best Cajun food I've ever had, and, yes, I have been to Louisiana. It's also BYOB, which keeps the prices reasonable. AWESOME!

Beaching It!

2009-06-02T07:05:00.000-07:00

It's starting to get hot, which means that beach season is back! While there are a lot of beaches both on and off the island, these are the few I frequent on the Hong Kong side for a quick afternoon escape from the heat.

Big Wave Bay

Surfers head to Big Wave to catch the swells, while the girls who love them sun on the beach. Small coast, but it sure is pretty with large cliffs that hug either side. If you get tired of lounging on the beach you can wander up the trail or head to the beach side restaurant for a snack.

Shek-O

Nice, long sandy stretch of beach, but you'll be playing beach-blanket bingo when the weather is nice. Lifeguards are on duty and there are is even a playground for kids. Town shops cater to beach bums who need sunscreen and boogie boards. There also a couple of great restaurants if you stay through the afternoon.

South Bay Beach

A small beach tucked away from it all, this sandy outpost attracts expats in the know. There's a nice laid-back restaurant that's a great place for a snack or a cocktail, but be warned: the staff is as laid back as the vibe. Easy to get to, but hard to head home. You may want to put a taxi driver's number on speed-dial before you head out.

Stanley International Dragon Boat Festival

2009-05-28T00:59:00.000-07:00

Dragon boating has been around for more than 2,000 years, so it was bound to have some quirky traditions sprout up around it. Some places don't let women paddle ... bad luck. At the Stanley International Dragon Boat Festival, women can compete, but the races are halted half way through the day for some ceremonial rituals.

First a roasted pig is carried out onto the beach and incense is lit around it. Staff members then go out and paint the eyes of the dragon red. Finally the staff takes out a golden blade and makes a sacrificial cut into the pig. I'm not quite sure what is done with the pig afterwards by the staff, but as for the teams, they continue to race.

Even though the competition is on a Thursday, there are still thousands of people out to watch the races, thanks to the fact that it is a national holiday in Hong Kong. More than 4,000 teams took part in this year's competition, and it seemed a good deal stuck around after to celebrate their wins or forget their losses down at Stanley's waterfront pub area.

Oh, and BTW -- SMUG ladies won it all on the beach this year!!

The Circle Grows

2009-05-01T23:27:00.000-07:00

Within the circle-ring roads around Beijing, the past and the present swirl around each other. It is what makes this capital city such a remarkable place to visit. Grade seven was lucky to experience the new and old of Beijing in April. We saw the old men in Mao jackets smoking aromatic Chinese cigarettes on the street corners, and the modern college students climbing man-made rock walls. We saw the I.M. Pei designed office towers and the communist-style apartment blocks. We even slept on plush, duvet-covered beds at a modern hotel, and then we laid down for a night on a cold, stone slab covered with mattress pads at a village house.

In some ways, these might seem like contradictions in people, architecture and neighborhoods, but they are part of who Beijing was, is and will become.

During our trip, we were able to sample the different sides of Beijing today. We visited local produce markets where the students had to use their Chinese skills. We hiked The Great Wall and marveled at the scenery around us. We gaped at the feats of the acrobats who had us at the edge of our seats. We flew kites in Tiananmen Square.

Our trip was made comfortable by our two tour guides, but it is easy to feel out of your element in China. It was peculiar for us to see children who went without diapers, or bathrooms without walls and starfish and scorpions done up as snacks on kebab sticks.

Coming from Hong Kong, it was intriguing to see this city in transition. Hong Kong shed much of its past long ago as it segued into its current cosmopolitan state. It’s easy to forget that the mainland was decades behind our city here, and yet, it is catching up at a rapid pace as communism is replaced by capitalism. It begs the question: How much longer will you hear the woman hawking fresh tofu in the streets? How much longer will you see the green hills around The Great Wall unmarred by souvenir shops?

Its past was as the home of emperors and the seat of power for dynasties that stretched back centuries. Its future depends upon it becoming the new economic powerhouse of Asia. Caught between these two realities, Beijing just seems to expand, allowing its circle roads to encompass it all.

Buddy-ing up with the Big Buddha

2009-04-15T01:11:00.000-07:00

I admit that I had avoided a trip to The Big Buddha for as long as I could. But when my parents came to town, I decided to give the Ngong Ping 360 cable car ride up to the resting place of the Big Buddha a try.

Why did I wait so long? The cable car ride itself is far less than I would have expected for such a touristy place ($93 RT), and the view was well worth the value. Even though it was a cloudy day, we still enjoyed watching the clouds blow over the Lantau hillsides. As we came closer to Ngong Ping village, we saw the Buddha loom on the hilltop. I don't mean to sound cheesy, but it was a serene sight.

The Ngong Ping village is a bit of a tourist trap, but prices again aren't as inflated as one would imagine. We grabbed lunch at Zen Taiwanese Bistro and then made our way over to The Buddha. After climbing the steps, you can then wander around the Po Lin Monastery, a working Buddhist monastery where you can watch the monks pray or make some offerings yourself.

All Ways to The Peak

2009-04-07T15:48:00.000-07:00

The Peak is another one of those must-see stops on a tourist's list. It's one of the most exclusive areas of HK because of the fabulous views it affords from its vantage point. From the lookout, you can peer down at the skyscrapers and harbor below.

There are a number of ways to get to The Peak. It all depends on how much time and energy you are willing to spend to get there.

Tram
Most tourists visit The Peak by way of The Peak Tram. You can add on The Peak Lookout to the price of the ticket, but IMO, it's not the best vantage point and you're better off going for the plain ol' ticket ($22 one way/$33 RT).

The lines for the tram can be killer, but once on board, the motorized cable car does an almost vertical climb uphill. It has great views of the skyscrapers and the tropical foliage along the way. At the top, riders are dumped into a mall where they can shop for trinkets. Head outdoors, though for the view.

Bus
For a roller-coaster like adventure, score yourself a front seat on the top deck of the bus that heads up from Central. Take in the awesome views as you zip along the windy roads leading back to the city. Better yet, take the bus down. It's more thrilling coming down.

Hike
There are several ways that you can hike to The Peak, as well. From Central, hike up Old Peak Road and you'll find the trail from there. While the trek isn't for the meek, beginners and more advanced hikers can hack the trail just fine. At the top, reward yourself with the view-- and a beverage stop.

Israel: A Homecoming

2009-04-02T23:18:00.000-07:00

When our plane touched down, we were beat. We felt dirty and weary from the 15-hour journey we had endured. But when we met the next morning for breakfast with a seaside view of the Kinneret, we were rejuvenated with optimism and excitement. We were in Israel!

Some of us had been here before, others had never stepped foot in the country. Yet, throughout the week, the guides and the people we met made it feel like a homecoming for all of us.

It’s hard not to feel some attachment to Israel. It’s here where three religions of the world intersect, which makes Israel one of the most revered and fractured places in the world. Yet, whatever your political or religious leaning, it’s easy to fall in love with this land.

In the north, mountains rise up majestically, the highest of which are capped in snow. Centrally, there’s the Mediterranean Sea and the urban playground of Tel Aviv. Further south, you can find solitude in the Negev desert. All this is within reach by car – or bus, as it was.

During our twelve day stay, we sampled a bit from every region. We hiked Israel’s hillsides, rappelled its stony crags and swam in its seas. But it wasn’t just nature that spoke to us, it was also the history of Israel.

At every turn another story whispered to us. On the stairs in the City of David, we remembered the Jews who hid underneath, but were ultimately discovered by the Romans. Overlooking Tel Azeka, we remembered David’s courage as we re-enacted his infamous fight against Goliath. On the high steppe of Masada, we debated among ourselves the choice the Zealots faced – death or slavery.

While it’s the ancient stories that are well told, we also walked in the shadows of modern men who helped build today’s Israel with their determination, hard-work, and for some, sacrifice. We visited the home of Ben Gurion, the man who ushered in the State of Israel, but chose to live his twilight years modestly on a kibbutz. We lit candles at the graves of soldiers, men and women who gave their lives to defend Israel. And we visited the grave of Theodore Herltz who rests in Israel because he lived in restless pursuit of a nation for the Jews.

Together, we did more than we ever thought possible. We met strangers who are now friends. We worked the land, harvesting vegetables and planting trees. We left friendships, memories and physical evidence that we were there behind, ensuring that when we return to Israel, we will feel welcomed, at home.

Art Walk 2009

2009-03-12T02:12:00.001-07:00

On Wednesday, galleries across the city threw open their doors and played host to the throngs of folks who came out to Art Walk.

This button, pictured here, was my ticket into the various venues that threw quite a party, complete with gorgeous art and free-flowing wine and food. Of course, it was all in the name of a good cause. Society for Community Organization, the recipient of the proceeds, helps the 'cage people' of Hong Kong.

These are people who rent out a 6 x 3 foot bunk bed in a flat crammed with similar small cubicles. In fact, a 700 sq. ft flat could be home to more than 21 cages. These 'homes' don't come free, either. A SoCo representative told me that the going monthly rate for one cage is $1,000.

There's a story about cage dwellers here.

Da Ping Ho: Private Kitchen of HK

2009-02-05T01:32:00.000-08:00

Brian and I have been fascinated by the whole private kitchen phenomenon here in Hong Kong. One of our first tastes of this sensation was Yellow Door Kitchen.

Most private kitchens are small -- about 10 tables or less -- and feature a set menu for the evening. All you have to do is make a reservation and then show up and eat. Love it! No food envy when you all get the same meal.

Da Ping Ho is more artsy than Yellow Door. It is run by a husband/wife team. The husband is an artist who has outfitted the restaurant space in his own paintings. He also does most of the hosting, helping you pick your wines and shuttling the spicy concoctions to the table. Did I mention that this restaurant is Schezuan? The wife is the cook, but her talents don't stop in the kitchen. She is also a former opera singer, and after dinner she emerges from the kitchen to serenade the evening's diners. Dinner, entertainment and artsy digs - I'll be back.

Jam Session at Peel Fresco

2009-02-03T14:50:00.000-08:00

My brother-in-law, David, has mad skills on the drums. He was visiting us in Hong Kong and wanted to check out the local music scene. So we took him to Peel Fresco's open-jam night. They played everything from jazz to rock. Multiple musicians got up playing sax, piano, trumpet, guitar, bass and drums. It was a friendly crowd, as one would expect, and people were spilling out into the streets to get some breathing room as the room started to swing and sway as the night drew on and the tunes got louder and wilder.

P.S. - I've checked out this spot on weekends, as well, and the music is always top notch. My favorite jazz bar to date!

A night in the Sahara

2009-02-03T14:48:00.000-08:00

Middle Eastern is what we were craving, so we made our way to Sahara, a small oasis of a spot on Elgin. More lounge than restaurant, this dark little spot still takes its cuisine quite seriously.

With just three of us dining, we decided to make it a true family affair and ordered some platters for sharing. We started with the Mezze platter, a large platter with all the usual suspects on it: hummus, baba, Moroccan cigars, feta and spanakopita. With little room leftover, our main courses arrived, a mega platter of perfectly grilled shish kebab meats and a piping hot and aromatic lamb tagine.

The main courses came with a heaping bowl of fluffy couscous and lightly spiced steamed vegetables.

Price to portion, Sahara can't be beat. We ended up with a bag full of leftovers and actually toted them around town with us -- they were too good to leave behind!

The Chapel

2009-02-02T14:47:00.000-08:00

The Chapel is a great pub that serves a mean curry. I'm happy that it's a stone's throw from my home, too.

Brian and I must come here once a week to get our fix of tandoori and daal. Mmmmm.

Bonus: They have a great quiz night on Thursdays. Be armed with your smartest mates, though: it's difficult!

Koh Samui on Chinese New Year

2009-01-31T14:44:00.000-08:00

Hong Kongers don't tend to stick around for Chinese New Year, and after seeing my fair share of lion dances last year, I was anxious to get out of town this year, too.

Our destination? Koh Samui. Friends of ours had raved about this small little island off the coast of Thailand, and we were anxious to check it out for ourselves.

We booked ourselves into a villa, one of our favorite ways to feel home away from home. Villa Sunshining, and the people who manage it, were amazing. Perched upon a hill, the villa commands a fantastic view over Big Buddha harbour. From our high vantage point, we were able to enjoy spectacular sunsets each night of our stay. This was the high point.

As for the rest of Koh Samui, it is quaint, but doesn't go so far as charming. Like most of Thailand, it has a pieced together feel: Big glitzy resorts next to shacks and huts. And, like many travel guides warn, it was overrun with folks seeking a neverending spring break rather than the neverending summer.

Chaweng Beach is the biggest and best known in Koh Samui, but unless you plan to stake out a piece of sand early, you will be hard-pressed (between bodies that is) to eek out blanket space. The beach is nice, however: calm waves lap against soft, white sand beaches. At night, Chaweng get groovin. The bars don't really start

Top Ten Things I Love About Hong Kong

2009-01-08T22:22:00.001-08:00

It's exactly one year today that I arrived in Hong Kong. It took me a while to get used to this city. At the beginning, I would bemoan the loss of my dear NYC. However, over time, I've come to realize that this place has charms all of its own.

Here's a list of my favorite:

1. The tram. It's quaint and riding from the top deck gives you a different view of the city.

2. Junk trips. It seems everyone's company out here owns a junk, and they're a boat-load of fun to be on for the day.

3. Tropical plants growing EVERYWHERE ... the kind we keep as house plants in NYC.

4. Dim sum. Hong Kong's answer to weekend brunch.

5. The Star Ferry. The Hong Kong tourism board actually requires that the Star Ferry be added to any list on Hong Kong. It is a pretty great ride from Central to the Kowloon side.

6. Urban hikes. Having so many mountains means you can hike in Hong Kong just by walking outside your door.

7. Outdoor escalator. Did I mention the mountains? For those who don't want to hike, there is an outdoor escalator in Central. Very cool.

8. Gleaming skyscrapers. OK, so most cities have them, but I think that Hong Kong takes the cake when it comes to architecture. My favorite - Bank of China.

9. Shek-O. More like Vietnam than Hong Kong. In just 20 minutes you feel worlds away from the city at this shanty beach town.

10. Sheung Wan. This has become my favorite neighborhood. Antique shops, quaints cafes and restaurants, plus an old Hong Kong charm that seems to have faded from the rest of the city.

Winter in Hong Kong

2008-11-23T14:54:00.000-08:00

I love that I can still go to the beach and go swimming at the end of November.

Crab Season

2008-11-02T14:56:00.000-08:00

In celebration of crab season, I present you with a taxi crab!

A romantic getaway

2008-10-21T08:26:00.000-07:00

I know: the title makes you want to puke. But Bali is a bit romantic. Maybe its the long and wide beaches or the splendid sunsets.

Brian had a conference in Nusa Dua, so we started off our week there. We stayed at the Grand Hyatt, which wasn't much different (from what I could tell) from The Laguna, a resort in the same area that we stayed at the last time. I have to admit, though, that mega resorts aren't really my thing. We spent two days on the compound ... er, resort ... swimming and dining among the handsome and lovely couples and young families, but enough already. I was in need of our own private Bali.

Privacy came in the form of our own Villa. Friends had told us that renting a villa was the way to go in Bali, and I was a silly on the koolaid from the first second I walked into our walled in paradise. We had our own full size swimming pool that ended basically where the living room of the house began. Ahhh ... why leave?

Well, for one, there was all that great shopping to be done just down the road from us. Brian and I haggled our way down the road for at least a few hours ... not even coming close to exhausting all the stores. Among our loot, we scored some great homewares, lamps and I got two dresses for less that $16.

Of course, whatever money we saved on our bargain shopping, we blew on some elaborate dinners. On one night, we went and checked out Hu'u, a trendy, spacious restaurant that had a large pool in the center. Word on the street is that some do opt for a swim after washing down some martinis in the wee hours. We didn't see anyone dive in ourselves, but the place was pretty happening as we got ready to leave. I'm sad to admit, though, that scenery was about all that Hu'u had going for it: pretty decks, pretty people and pretty food. But it didn't make the food any more appetizing.

Maybe I was disappointed because I was expecting some Balinesian fare. We did manage to get some the next night at a small waroeng.

The next night, we went large with sunset cocktails and dinner at Ku-De-Ta. Right on the beach, this is billed as THE place to be in Bali. So, I shouldn't have been sticker shock when I saw that my martini cost $18. Yup, that was about 9 times as much as my lunch! I might have felt better about it if they had served it up in an oversized glass, but this was a pretty standard martini. Down the hatch with it ...

Despite my initial shock, we did have an enjoyable evening. The food was good, no, really good. I started with a tuna tartare for an appetizer and then had a linguine that didn't skimp on seafood.

Afterwards, we could have gone out on the strip and checked out some other bars, but instead, we retreated to our villa for one last night swim.

Night at the Races

2008-10-16T07:51:00.000-07:00

Happy Valley may be a euphemism for the cemetery in the area, but it is synonymous with the race course here.

I haven't been to many of the races to date, but Brian and I did go down and check them out on Wednesday. Oktoberfest was going on, and while there may not have been many Germans, there were certainly a lot of gui-los getting their drink on.

We partook in some of the drinking, but the main action was the horses. I put my money down on a horse called A World full of Love. Man, he must get picked on in the stable. I figured I had to choose a horse that sounded like a bad love ballad. Unfortunately, luck was not on my side. Brian, nor any of our other pals really hit it big that night.

Crabs

2008-09-05T18:16:00.000-07:00

Brian's family always crabs on Labor Day. Since we weren't going to make it back to Philly for the feast, we had to find some crabs here in Hong Kong. We ended up at the Thai restaurant in Shek-O.

Since they don't seem to have Old Bay out here, we had to make due with what was on the menu. We ordered the garlic crab and chili crab. I think we both liked the chili crab the best. The garlic crab was way too potent.

Where do you go for crabs?

Beach Days

2008-09-03T03:13:00.001-07:00

One thing I really like about Hong Kong is that summer doesn't end after Labor Day. In the Northeast, winter is about 6 months and summer is really only about two. But the tables are turned here. From what I've gathered, I got another couple of months of beach weather here.

For the past two weeks, we've been exploring some of the Hong Kong beaches.

Shek-O. I really love Shek-O town. The beach ... not so much. It's beach-blanket bingo, for one. And there's an entire flotilla of blow-up rafts in the water. It made me feel as if I was at a giant pool, not an ocean.

South Bay. Great vibe here. The beach is heavy on the expats drawn to the laid-back lunch bar. Some people even just camp at the tables. The one drawback is leaving. Taxis are few and there can be a long line for the buses, too.

Next weekend ... Big Wave Bay. What's your favorite beach?

Dim Sum Is Summering

2008-08-03T03:11:00.000-07:00

In Rhode Island. Wish you were here.

I'm back in the fall.

Restaurant Week ... kind of

2008-06-28T03:02:00.000-07:00

There are many great things about having people come and visit you when you're far from home, but one of the best is having a perfect reason to try out that restaurant you've been wanting to go to.

Brian's father came to town last week and we took the opportunity to try out several new (to us) places. Our culinary tour around Hong Kong reestablished my faith that there is good food to be had in the city. I've been pretty down on Hong Kong cuisine, but we found a few gems that you should try - even if you don't have company in town.

Yellow Door Kitchen
This Cantonese restaurant in Central is like going to a good friend's home. You show up and the meal is served. The menu is only there to let you know what you will be feasting on. And feasting it is. About seven courses are served in all. The favorites were the tea-infused pork ribs and the sweet and sour fish.

Hutong
Perched high above Kowloon, commanding an amazing view of Victoria Harbor, you almost don't care if the food at Hutong takes second bill. Luckily, it's mostly spot-on. Beijing standards like shrimp-filled dumplings and spicy lamb skewers pleased al around. Tofu and green-bean veggie dishes were other standouts. My only complaint was the duck, which was fried, not roasted. Regardless, this stays on my list as a must-see for out-of-town guests.

Duke's
Brian's dad spent a week in China before coming to visit us in Hong Kong. By the time he arrived, all he wanted was a burger. We were anxious to please, so we headed over to Duke's, which is essentially a pimped out burger joint complete with velvet sofas and chandeliers. The menu is made up of burgers only. There's no other entrees to be had here, just sides of fries. I chose the rabbit burger topped with crispy sweetbreads. Brian and his father had the standard beef version. I think we all pretty much agreed the rabbit was the reason to come back. While the joint is classy, ketchup is still the condiment of choice.

Rain Dance

2008-06-18T15:57:00.001-07:00

I thought moving to a sub-tropical location meant that I would be able to go to the beach every weekend. Well, I was wrong.

It rains A LOT here. First, there was the winter monsoon season - cold, clammy and rainy. And now it is the summer monsoon season - hot, humid and rainy.

This summer has been wetter than in years past. So far, it's rained like three weeks straight - some days continuously. My umbrella is rusted ... no joke! I've never had an umbrella rust!

Could this be part of the problem?

Doing the Duck

2008-06-11T06:34:00.000-07:00

Back in Beijing, I had one goal: do the Peking duck.

Duck de Chine is one of the latest duck eateries to open in the capital city. Housed in the trendy, new 1949 complex, the restaurant is both glam and gourmet. Duck comes prepared in a wide array of cuisines - the duck tacos were fabulous - but the main attraction is the original Peking style.

The bird's arrival is announced by the low clang of a gong and it is then carved table side by a black-clad chef. From there, you can load it into light, wispy pancakes with a sprinkling of scallions and dollops of hoisin.

How was it? Check out Brian's commentary below:

Don't Forget the Charmin

2008-06-09T11:07:00.000-07:00

OK ... it should be don't squeeze the Charmin, but when you go to China don't forget to bring toilet paper. Bathrooms are ... how should I put this ... rudimentary at best.

High-end hiking on the Great Wall

2008-06-08T15:43:00.000-07:00

The Great Wall recently earned the title as a ‘Wonder of the World’ from the recent campaign to update the Seven Ancient Wonders, despite the fact that the terrain it covers, its engineering and sheer length have been a marvel for centuries.

I knew there were several quick daytrips out to The Wall that one could take, but I figured a world wonder warranted more time to be thoroughly enjoyed and explored. So we booked ourselves into the Red Capital Ranch at the base of where two sections of unrestored wall meet in Yanxi Township.

The hotel is a destination itself, fusing elements from Manchurian, Mongolian and Tibetan culture. Take for instance the Tibetan Tiger Lodge, the hotel’s bar that is adorned with brightly colored doors and furniture from the region. Even the cuisine takes its cue from traditional ingredients and spices: corn dumplings stuffed with mountain vegetables, leg of lamb with Tibetan rub, and chicken soup with forest berries.

The architecture is said to be reminiscent of a mountain lodge that Emperors of the Qing dynasty frequented. The owners boast of hiring crews responsible for restoring the Forbidden City to build the Manchurian-styled retreats. Inside, the rooms are decorated with a Zen minimalism that is rustic but comfortable. One of the highlights is the Kang style stone bed, which originally would have been heated by the family’s cooking hearth attached to it.

But the real attraction is the property itself. Nestled in a river valley below the shadow of the Great Wall, the hotel’s rooms and pavilions offer breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, rivers and streams.

From the property, you can access two hikes. The Eastern Route is the more challenging trail, but the Western Route allows you to travel to Mutianyu, if you have the time and equipment; we found that upon reaching the eighth pavilion, the route became quite treacherous.

The trails along both sections are unrestored. This keeps the tourists away and affords the adventurous time to gaze out from watchtowers with no one in sight – just as the soldiers would have liked it!

The Western route climbs slowly uphill. On most sections, you can walk on the remains of the wall, but there are places where the deterioration is so bad, that you bypass the wall through the forest.

The Eastern Route is a vertical climb that then splits in a North and South direction. Legend has it that the contractor who built the Southern wall was beheaded: the general’s plans ran North. Hikes also follow the North route, high on the mountain ridge where you can gaze far out across the valley. Only three watchtowers can be reached before you come to an impasse in the trail.

Both climbs will take about half a day. But even on these treks, you only get a small taste of the sheer size of The Wall. It constantly snakes away from you into the distance … but it does this over 7,300 kilometers.

Back at the Ranch, I got some relief for my sore muscles with a Tibetan body massage. I’m not sure how often Tibetans practice this therapy, but for this infrequent hiker, the service was truly therapeutic.

Details: Red Capital Ranch, Yanxi Township, Huairou District. Rooms start at $200. Hiking from base of the hotel.

Public buses are no fun

2008-06-04T16:08:00.001-07:00

They don't allow anything ... not even spitting.

I hanker for a hunk of cheese

2008-06-03T22:54:00.000-07:00

Chinese cuisine is governed by rules: Balance spicy with sweet; Cut food into bite-size pieces; Include a fish with each meal.

Yet one rule in Western cuisine has no place in the Asian handbook: the more cheese the better.

Diary is all but absent from Chinese food, so it should come as no surprise that trying to find cheese when one is hankering is no easy feat. Even most Western grocery stores that have cheese departments seem to have added them as afterthoughts rather than as mainstays of a deli department.

So I'm asking you, readers ... are there any good cheese shops out there? Until I find one, I'll be humming this tune ...

Let's go to the movies ...

2008-05-30T22:53:00.000-07:00

Going to the movies in Hong Kong is a civilized affair: they have assigned seating.

At first, I was put off by this idea, but after trying it, I liked not worrying about getting to the theater early to get a good seat since you choose your place when you purchase the tickets.

Word to wise: buy your tickets online in advance , since seats fill up fast as the movies don't stay in the theaters very long. Even popular films only stick around for about a week ... two at most! The theaters are all quite small, too, so don't worry about taking a seat towards the back.

One overarching complaint about HK movie-theaters is that they don't seem to take their sound systems seriously. This girl likes her movies loud. Oh ... and if you're a butter lover, you're out of luck: popcorn comes two ways only, salty or sweet.

Details: for theater listings and tickets, go to Cityline or Broadway Circuit.

Back from Beijing, comrad

2008-05-13T22:52:00.000-07:00

Sometimes a place seems to have a soul all its own; mystique laced with energy that keeps you in constant motion wandering from one fantastic spot to the other. Beijing is that kind of city.

Unlike other large Asian cities, Beijing hasn't been desecrated by Westernization. This is a Chinese city, first and foremost. There's just a handful of signs in English, and you can forget about getting a taxi driver who speaks a language other than Mandarin. In Beijing, you get the frenetic pace of progress mixed with remnants of China's long, cultural past.

Having said that, Beijing is at the tipping point: trendy restaurants are on the rise, hawker stalls are moving indoors to clean up the streets and there's even a good saturation of Starbucks on city blocks.

The worst part of Beijing is getting there. You can go to any of the China Travel branches, but make sure you bring proof of your itinerary and hotel bookings when you go. Bring lots of cash, too: all the rates have been raised for the Olympics, so a visa will set you back about $1600 HKD if you're an American like me.

My three-day itinerary included these highlights:

The Forbidden City - Built smack in the middle of Beijing, this compound that belonged to the Emporer is staggering in size. Do yourself a favor and splurge for the audio tour since there are few signs that will explain the history of the palaces and temples.

Green T. - This restaurant is the kind of party girl you hate: the one who is pretty and flaunts it. Green Tea is oh, so pretty, but it's pretentious to boot. Take for instance the menu .... it's written in poetry (I kid you not). However, the place will win you over first with it's food presentations - a tree with small butterflies in it accompanied spring rolls to the table - and then with the food - I'm still dreaming about the spare ribs that were reminiscent of oatmeal cookies. Sounds strange, but so good.

Dirt Market - This large, open air market only operates on the weekends, but it is a bonanza of pottery, art, handicrafts, Cultural Revolution paraphernalia, jewelry and ... well just about anything you can think of. (Brian picked up a pair of binoculars). The name reflects the pricing: it's dirt cheap! Well, at least most stuff is after you've bargained for it. Tell the taxi driver you want to go to Panjiayuan (the Chinese name for the market), and Skip the Silk Market, which is open all week, but has similar goods at three times the price.

Bei Hai Park - Even though Bei Hei is fast becoming the center of where expats eat and party, during the day it still belongs to The People. On the sunny day we were there, some were paddling along the large lake, others were just resting by the banks, while still others were singing opera and swimming in their Speedos like this crazy guy pictured.

798 Artist District -- Located in the Dashanzi district, this artists' enclave is testament to the forward-thinking momentum of the city - although there is a rumor that the area will be shuttered after the Olympics. That would be a shame, because you can spend the better part of a day flitting from shops to galleries to cafes here. The space that houses 798 used to be German weapons factories and there's still a stark, industrial feel to this place that's rich with creativity.

Dumplings - Going to Beijing and not having dumplings is like going to Philadelphia and not having a cheesesteak. These doughy delicacies can be found everywhere, but are best at the cheap corner stands.

Hutongs - Just a few years ago, hutongs, traditional Beijing homes built around a center courtyard, were a dying breed. Construction of hotels, apartments and shopping centers were destroying whole neighborhoods of these classic homes. Thanks to public outcry, however, the hutong is crawling back from the brink of extinction. In fact, many are being refurbished and even rebuilt. Go to areas east of the Forbidden City or near Bei Hai park to experience to hutong.

Day trip in Cheung Chau

2008-05-04T22:51:00.000-07:00

Although it only takes 30 minutes to get to Cheung Chau from HK Island, the difference feels a hundred years apart. Sampans dot the waterways; open air shops and restaurants densely line the streets in town; and to get around you'll need to walk; cars simply aren't allowed.

That's fine since hiking is a pleasure on the island. Go towards the main beach Tung Wan, and you'll see a winding path. It will lead you past the Mini Great Wall, temples, rock carvings and other pretty vantage spots on the island.

After working up a sweat, head back to the beaches. Opt for the smaller beach, Kwun Yam Wan, set back from town. The facilities are not as nice as at Tung Wan beach, but there is a small restaurant, and you can rent beach chairs and an umbrella for the afternoon.

When you're appetite starts raging after an afternoon of hiking and swimming, head into town where you can refuel at one of the many fish restaurants by the boat pier. They supposedly all have similar quality food, but it's always wise to choose one that seems popular. While a nice harbor-side seat sounds scenic, be warned that the water can be smelly.

Details: Pier 5 from Central every 30 min (app.). No transportation needed on the island.

Bali bound

2008-05-01T22:51:00.000-07:00

Bali isn't the polished, beach babe that you expect, but she certainly has her charms.

She can be crafty - think batik, basket weaving and wood carving.
She can be hardworking - rice fields and cattle take up all open space.
She can be laid back - courtesy of the surfer and backpack vibe.

Three days was hardly enough to see it all ... but I can always come calling on Bali again.

If you, too, are short on time, here are some highlights:

Do the pig -- Stuffed with spices and then spit roasted to a crispy perfection, Babi Berguling is a classic Balinese dish. Go to Warung Ibu Oka in Ubud. It isn't the fanciest, but it's been called the best. There you can grab a seat on the floor, sip on a lime juice and indulge in this sublime pork specialty.

Do the creatures - In Ubud, there is a Monkey Forest. Skip that, those creatures can be nasty, and head instead to the Bird & Reptile Sanctuary. They have a Komodo dragon, plus amazing owls, macaws, lizards and even large-winged bats that you can get up-close to.

Do the shopping -- The shopping alone is enough reason to go to Bali. This is an import mecca for many island-inspired home goods you see in stores. Bypass the markup and stock up on placemats, baskets, napkins, woodcarvings, textiles and more (I got napkin rings that sell at Pottery barn for $8 for $0.75). They also have some cute boutiques that specialize in island wear at a fraction of what it costs back home.

Do the fish -- Catch a taxi to Jimberan and then stroll into one of the many fresh seafood restaurants along the beach. How fresh you ask? Your fish is plucked from a tank and then grilled before your eyes.

No Joke ...

2008-04-01T23:14:00.000-07:00

I am going on a hiatus for a month. My sister is having a baby and I'm getting married.

Finding my Inner Hiker

2008-03-18T06:38:00.000-07:00

We have a home

2008-03-09T22:50:00.000-07:00

On March 9th, we officially moved into our new flat. It's located behind the race track in an area known as Happy Valley. It sounds like such a lovely place to live, doesn't it?

Brian wanted an apartment with a patio.

I wanted an apartment with an open kitchen.

We got neither. However, we did get a proper sized three-bedroom flat, so we've plenty of room for guests.

My favorite part of the apartment is the dining room. The worst part is the kitchen. I have no oven and just a two burner stove. Oh, and where my oven should be, there is a washing machine.

I better brush up my wok and pan-frying skills.

No standing on toilets

2008-03-01T22:49:00.000-08:00

I guess that if you’re accustomed to squat-pots, it’s kind of hard to get used to seats. But really, it must take some effort to climb up on top of one.

Here’s a reminder that’s posted in our workplace bathrooms:

One night (or three) in Bangkok

2008-02-29T22:48:00.000-08:00

One of the things I like best about Hong Kong is that it's easy to get from here to there. Just a few hours by plane can take you to some exotic places. Take for instance, our weekend excursion ...

Three short hours and we were out of the gloom of winter and beside the pool of The Four Seasons in Bangkok. While The Four Seasons is usually a splurge, this location is surprisingly affordable and comes with the five-star service that earned the hotel its reputation.

When we got the urge to journey away from our lounge chairs, here's where we went:

Manohra Cruise -- Brian audiably moaned when I told him that I reserved a dinner cruise, but it turned out to be a great way to orientate ourselves with the city. The cruise is aboard a huge, teak, rice boat where a five-course meal of traditional Thai dishes is served. Along the way, you'll wind past famous sites like the Royal Palace, Wat Arun and even the Boathouse of the Royal barges. Dozens of similar dinner boats troll the river at night, but none are as nice. The Manohra sets a romantic stage with tables spaced far apart, dim candle lighting a served meal, not a buffet.

Ayutthaya -- When I heard Ayutthaya was a World Heritage site, I had to go. The city, which was the Thai capital for hundreds of years, features dozens of wat temples that were once covered in gold before the Burmese ransacked the capital.

Ayutthaya is a good hour from Bangkok, but it's easy find tour companies for the trip. Most will first bus you to the Royal Palace at Bang Pa-in, and then on to Ayutthaya. Our tour took us back to Bangkok via a leisurly river cruise and included lunch (a buffet).

Faces -- Modern meets traditional in this trendy restaurant/lounge/spa. In both the Indian and Thai restaurants, much time was paid to each detail in the room. Take for instance the large buddha in La Na Thai. It isn't cheap for Bangkok, but it is chic and tasty.

Hiking in the shadow of the urban jungle

2008-02-20T22:47:00.000-08:00

Since Peru, I've had the itch to hike. Then, I read that one of the ten best urban hikes (according to Time Magazine) was right in my own backyard: Dragon Back.

The online guides I found mentioned that the entrance was not easy to find. They were right. My advice is take a taxi towards Shek-O; jump out at the sign for the creamatorium; and then walk up the stairs towards the prison. (I can't believe these are directions on how to start a hike, either). The road near the prison leads you onto the trail.

The hike isn't a difficult one, but you do get some great views that put skyscrapers in the distance at odds with rocky seacoasts.

In all, it took about an hour to hike to the end of the trail. We then caught a bus into Shek-O and had lunch at the popular Chinese/Thai restaurant in town. If it's a nice day, take your swimsuit so you can hit the beach right there in Shek-O.

There are plenty of buses from town that you can catch back into town.

LKF

2008-02-09T22:46:00.000-08:00

Lan Kwai Fong is a bar/restaurant area of the city. It's kind of where you end up (even if you didn't mean to) on the weekends when you are an expat in the city.

You'll see all kinds of things on this street ... even Elvis!

Shopping wears me down

2008-02-05T22:45:00.000-08:00

Clothes Shopping: Some stores only carry up to a size US4, and they actually have a size negative 2. Even when shops have my size, the style is usually for a waif figure. Everything is a tunic. Or the pants are too short.

Why shouldn't a tall,Western girl wear Asian styles, you ask? I went to my yoga studio wearing a new tunic and was given a pass to the pre-natal yoga class - I wanted to go to Hot Yoga. I wore my gym clothes home and threw the tunic out.

Shoe Shopping: I was told by a sales clerk who just LOOKED at my feet that they didn't have my size shoe. I don't know what's more embarrassing: having sales clerks notice how big your feet are or being stared at in disbelief when you actually do ask for your size. (I'm a 9.5 for the record).

I don't know how much more shopping my ego can take!

Ten things I miss about NYC already ....

2008-02-01T22:43:00.000-08:00

10. The diversity of people … nothing compares.
9. Crazy street people. They add a lot of color to the city.
8. Salad bars. Fresh vegetables just aren’t popular here.
7. Access to the arts. As a visitor to NYC you can entertain yourself for months just by checking out the cultural arts/theater scene of NYC. Not so much here.
6. Big wide sidewalks. There are so many people here and the sidewalks aren’t big enough to fit us all.
5. The pace. People walk soooo much slower to and fro. It’s annoying
4. Yellow taxi cabs. There are a lot of cabs here, but they’re red.
3. Bodegas … although there are 7/11s everywhere!!
2. The old fashioned architecture in buildings. Really, most apartment buildings are big and butt ugly.
1. The attitude.

OK, enough lamenting, time to find out what Hong Kong is all about. Here. We. Go.