Shanghai Old and New

I can understand why people love Shanghai. It is urban, has great architecture, and is constantly evolving. Take the Maglev train into the city at 431 km/hour and you know that this is a city screaming into the 21st century fast.

I decided to meet Brian in Shanghai for the weekend. We stayed at the Jia Hotel, a hip, boutique spot that would be comfortable in any metropolitan city. And while Shanghai has all the trappings of a cosmopolitan city -- posh restaurants, upscale shopping -- there is still enough of old China that exists that makes this city a cultural destination.

By far, my favorite glimpse of Old China was a side trip we took just outside of the city to Xi Tang. This 1,700-year old water is considered the Venice of Shanghai, and it’s just as picturesque with a definitively Asian flair. We saw old stone bridges flanked by willow trees; square homes with intricate roofs decorated majestically with red lanterns; and women washing their laundry in the river – even on this cold day.

One could spend hours touring the 120 tiny alleyways of this city. Around every new corner seems to be lurking a postcard perfect picture, too. There are also great bargains to be had in the variety of shop stalls set up around the town -- look for the natively made blue and white batik goods.

Back in the city, though, you can forget that China does have a quieter side. As far as population goes, Shanghai is more than 3 times as dense as Paris, and 1.5 times more dense than New York. Older (more charming) buildings are being bulldozed at an alarming rate to make room for more high-rises and large skyscrapers, the most famous of which are on the Pudong side of the city. This is where you can see famous buildings like The Pearl Tower and The Shanghai World Financial Center, known to locals as The Bottle Opener.

After taking a bird’s eye view of the city from the top of the sky deck, we decided to spend a quieter

afternoon in the famous artist district off Moganshan Road. This enclave is home to painters, glass blowers and sculptors, with a good dash of restaurants and retail shops. It’s a great place to spend the afternoon wandering and picking up souvenirs.

We ended our long weekend meeting up with friends and taking in a leisurely brunch in The French Concession. This old area of the city has beautiful sycamore trees that line the streets and parts of it are definitely reminiscent of Europe.

It seems that you can still find balance in Shanghai. There is the culture, the sophistication, the quieter streets and alleyways. Shanghai is a city that impresses on the breadth of what it offers and what it has the potential to become.

Other fun spots we visited in Shanghai:

Spin -- great pottery boutique. I could have bought everything.

Shintori -- warehouse-sized space that serves some of the city’s most fresh, if not most avant garde, sushi.

Kathleen’s Five -- glance around at what Shanghai might have been at this restaurant/bar on top of the Shanghai Art Museum, the former Jockey Club.

Summer Vacation: Vietnam Report

Vietnam wasn’t a place I was supposed to want to go to. My dad was all but avoiding the issue about my upcoming trip. But his Vietnam was worlds away from the Vietnam we visited.

To be fair, there is still plenty about the country that echoes its past. Farmers still tend to their rice paddies wearing conical hats. Hawkers sell their fresh baguettes on poles by the roadside. Fisherman hurl nets off small boats to take in a day’s catch. There is still so much village life left in Vietnam, and its refreshing to

see that it hasn’t exchanged its soul for tourist’s cash … at least not yet.

Most of the cruise operators in Halong Bay offer a two-day or three-day sail. If you have the time, go for the three-day option. On our extra day, we were able to spend it sailing on a private junk, and we even took a tour of one of the fishing villages that call the islands home. It’s worth seeing how people live in this remote part of the world. The one-room school that the students attend, the outdoor restaurant that exists solely for tourists like ourselves and the large government building -- what could they need that much space for?

Back on our tour ship, life stood in stark contrast. We had a big stateroom decked out in lacquered teak. Evening entertainment included cooking demonstrations, squid fishing and kayaking, and meals were served with white table linens. Sipping cocktails on the main deck while watching the sun set behind the cliffs was something I could have enjoyed for yet another night. But we had other places to see in Vietnam,

Our next stop was at Tam Hai island. Getting there was an adventure in itself: Plane from Hanoi to Denang, two hour car ride, followed by a boat to get us to the island. But upon seeing Le Domaine at Tam Hai, we felt as if we had discovered Paradise Island.

The resort is a quiet place set along the beach with huts placed thoughtfully spaced among the beautiful tropical forest. Days are spent lounging by the pool, kayaking down the inlets or finding shells along the beach. This was not a cultural excursion, but Le Domaine takes relaxation seriously. One of my favorite aspects was dinner. Tables are set out on the beach and meals are served with fine china and silver. Want to enjoy an after-dinner cocktail or dessert? The staff puts out a couch and sofa table by the waves for you to enjoy your final hours before bedtime.

Of course, one can only be so rested, and while Le Domaine was a much needed and appreciated pit-stop, we had one more destination in mind: Hoi An. The town is considered a World Heritage Site for being on the map since the 10th century as an important trading port in the South Asia. The Japanese once owned part of the city, which was sectioned off by the now famous Japanese bridge. Tourists can still walk over the 16th century structure and cross easily between both sections of town.

My husband and I took up residence at The Life Heritage Resort. The rooms are designed with a definitive modern palate, although the exterior oozed old-world imperial charm. But we didn’t come here for the hotel, we came to see the city.

Hoi An is a small town, but it is chock full of small arts and crafts stores and tailors who can riff off any designs you may be coveting. In truth, it’s a tourist trap. It’s a great place to walk around for the day and pick up some unique souvenirs -- we made out with some lanterns, and kitchenwares -- but it isn’t a place that you can take up residency for too long without getting bored of the hawkers and their calls.

On our second day, therefore, we visited the nearby China Beach. This long stretch of sand was perfect for strolling, and I especially enjoyed playing in the cooling waves on a day that soared close to 100 degrees outside. Yes, Vietnam is hot in summer. Hotter than any place I’ve ever been. And remember, this is not a first world country,

so air conditioning is spotty at best ... when it’s available. In fact, a walk from our sun chaise to the ocean resulted in a couple of heat blisters from the sand. It’s hot!!

Back in Hoi An, we spent our last day getting last minute adjustments to some dresses I had made and watching the comings and goings of the market. One remarkable thing is that it seems only women are in charge of the business transactions. We watched women fishing, hauling the catch and selling their vegetables. Where were the men?

There is plenty that we didn’t see in Vietnam, but that only leaves many excuses to return. Beautiful scenery, fresh food and pristine places will beckon us back soon.

The Circle Grows

Within the circle-ring roads around Beijing, the past and the present swirl around each other. It is what makes this capital city such a remarkable place to visit. Grade seven was lucky to experience the new and old of Beijing in April. We saw the old men in Mao jackets smoking aromatic Chinese cigarettes on the street corners, and the modern college students climbing man-made rock walls. We saw the I.M. Pei designed office towers and the communist-style apartment blocks. We even slept on plush, duvet-covered beds at a modern hotel, and then we laid down for a night on a cold, stone slab covered with mattress pads at a village house.

In some ways, these might seem like contradictions in people, architecture and neighborhoods, but they are part of who Beijing was, is and will become.

During our trip, we were able to sample the different sides of Beijing today. We visited local produce markets where the students had to use their Chinese skills. We hiked The Great Wall and marveled at the scenery around us. We gaped at the feats of the acrobats who had us at the edge of our seats. We flew kites in Tiananmen Square.

Our trip was made comfortable by our two tour guides, but it is easy to feel out of your element in China. It was peculiar for us to see children who went without diapers, or bathrooms without walls and starfish and scorpions done up as snacks on kebab sticks.

Coming from Hong Kong, it was intriguing to see this city in transition. Hong Kong shed much of its past long ago as it segued into its current cosmopolitan state. It’s easy to forget that the mainland was decades behind our city here, and yet, it is catching up at a rapid pace as communism is replaced by capitalism. It begs the question: How much longer will you hear the woman hawking fresh tofu in the streets? How much longer will you see the green hills around The Great Wall unmarred by souvenir shops?

Its past was as the home of emperors and the seat of power for dynasties that stretched back centuries. Its future depends upon it becoming the new economic powerhouse of Asia. Caught between these two realities, Beijing just seems to expand, allowing its circle roads to encompass it all.

Israel: A Homecoming

When our plane touched down, we were beat. We felt dirty and weary from the 15-hour journey we had endured. But when we met the next morning for breakfast with a seaside view of the Kinneret, we were rejuvenated with optimism and excitement. We were in Israel!

Some of us had been here before, others had never stepped foot in the country. Yet, throughout the week, the guides and the people we met made it feel like a homecoming for all of us.

It’s hard not to feel some attachment to Israel. It’s here where three religions of the world intersect, which makes Israel one of the most revered and fractured places in the world. Yet, whatever your political or religious leaning, it’s easy to fall in love with this land.

In the north, mountains rise up majestically, the highest of which are capped in snow. Centrally, there’s the Mediterranean Sea and the urban playground of Tel Aviv. Further south, you can find solitude in the Negev desert. All this is within reach by car – or bus, as it was.

During our twelve day stay, we sampled a bit from every region. We hiked Israel’s hillsides, rappelled its stony crags and swam in its seas. But it wasn’t just nature that spoke to us, it was also the history of Israel.

At every turn another story whispered to us. On the stairs in the City of David, we remembered the Jews who hid underneath, but were ultimately discovered by the Romans. Overlooking Tel Azeka, we remembered David’s courage as we re-enacted his infamous fight against Goliath. On the high steppe of Masada, we debated among ourselves the choice the Zealots faced – death or slavery.

While it’s the ancient stories that are well told, we also walked in the shadows of modern men who helped build today’s Israel with their determination, hard-work, and for some, sacrifice. We visited the home of Ben Gurion, the man who ushered in the State of Israel, but chose to live his twilight years modestly on a kibbutz. We lit candles at the graves of soldiers, men and women who gave their lives to defend Israel. And we visited the grave of Theodore Herltz who rests in Israel because he lived in restless pursuit of a nation for the Jews.

Together, we did more than we ever thought possible. We met strangers who are now friends. We worked the land, harvesting vegetables and planting trees. We left friendships, memories and physical evidence that we were there behind, ensuring that when we return to Israel, we will feel welcomed, at home.

Koh Samui on Chinese New Year

Hong Kongers don't tend to stick around for Chinese New Year, and after seeing my fair share of lion dances last year, I was anxious to get out of town this year, too.

Our destination? Koh Samui. Friends of ours had raved about this small little island off the coast of Thailand, and we were anxious to check it out for ourselves.

We booked ourselves into a villa, one of our favorite ways to feel home away from home. Villa Sunshining, and the people who manage it, were amazing. Perched upon a hill, the villa commands a fantastic view over Big Buddha harbour. From our high vantage point, we were able to enjoy spectacular sunsets each night of our stay. This was the high point.

As for the rest of Koh Samui, it is quaint, but doesn't go so far as charming. Like most of Thailand, it has a pieced together feel: Big glitzy resorts next to shacks and huts. And, like many travel guides warn, it was overrun with folks seeking a neverending spring break rather than the neverending summer.

Chaweng Beach is the biggest and best known in Koh Samui, but unless you plan to stake out a piece of sand early, you will be hard-pressed (between bodies that is) to eek out blanket space. The beach is nice, however: calm waves lap against soft, white sand beaches. At night, Chaweng get groovin. The bars don't really start

A romantic getaway

I know: the title makes you want to puke. But Bali is a bit romantic. Maybe its the long and wide beaches or the splendid sunsets.

Brian had a conference in Nusa Dua, so we started off our week there. We stayed at the Grand Hyatt, which wasn't much different (from what I could tell) from The Laguna, a resort in the same area that we stayed at the last time. I have to admit, though, that mega resorts aren't really my thing. We spent two days on the compound ... er, resort ... swimming and dining among the handsome and lovely couples and young families, but enough already. I was in need of our own private Bali.

Privacy came in the form of our own Villa. Friends had told us that renting a villa was the way to go in Bali, and I was a silly on the koolaid from the first second I walked into our walled in paradise. We had our own full size swimming pool that ended basically where the living room of the house began. Ahhh ... why leave?

Well, for one, there was all that great shopping to be done just down the road from us. Brian and I haggled our way down the road for at least a few hours ... not even coming close to exhausting all the stores. Among our loot, we scored some great homewares, lamps and I got two dresses for less that $16.

Of course, whatever money we saved on our bargain shopping, we blew on some elaborate dinners. On one night, we went and checked out Hu'u, a trendy, spacious restaurant that had a large pool in the center. Word on the street is that some do opt for a swim after washing down some martinis in the wee hours. We didn't see anyone dive in ourselves, but the place was pretty happening as we got ready to leave. I'm sad to admit, though, that scenery was about all that Hu'u had going for it: pretty decks, pretty people and pretty food. But it didn't make the food any more appetizing.

Maybe I was disappointed because I was expecting some Balinesian fare. We did manage to get some the next night at a small waroeng.

The next night, we went large with sunset cocktails and dinner at Ku-De-Ta. Right on the beach, this is billed as THE place to be in Bali. So, I shouldn't have been sticker shock when I saw that my martini cost $18. Yup, that was about 9 times as much as my lunch! I might have felt better about it if they had served it up in an oversized glass, but this was a pretty standard martini. Down the hatch with it ...

Despite my initial shock, we did have an enjoyable evening. The food was good, no, really good. I started with a tuna tartare for an appetizer and then had a linguine that didn't skimp on seafood.

Afterwards, we could have gone out on the strip and checked out some other bars, but instead, we retreated to our villa for one last night swim.

Doing the Duck

Back in Beijing, I had one goal: do the Peking duck.

Duck de Chine is one of the latest duck eateries to open in the capital city. Housed in the trendy, new 1949 complex, the restaurant is both glam and gourmet. Duck comes prepared in a wide array of cuisines - the duck tacos were fabulous - but the main attraction is the original Peking style.

The bird's arrival is announced by the low clang of a gong and it is then carved table side by a black-clad chef. From there, you can load it into light, wispy pancakes with a sprinkling of scallions and dollops of hoisin.

How was it? Check out Brian's commentary below:

High-end hiking on the Great Wall

The Great Wall recently earned the title as a ‘Wonder of the World’ from the recent campaign to update the Seven Ancient Wonders, despite the fact that the terrain it covers, its engineering and sheer length have been a marvel for centuries.

I knew there were several quick daytrips out to The Wall that one could take, but I figured a world wonder warranted more time to be thoroughly enjoyed and explored. So we booked ourselves into the Red Capital Ranch at the base of where two sections of unrestored wall meet in Yanxi Township.

The hotel is a destination itself, fusing elements from Manchurian, Mongolian and Tibetan culture. Take for instance the Tibetan Tiger Lodge, the hotel’s bar that is adorned with brightly colored doors and furniture from the region. Even the cuisine takes its cue from traditional ingredients and spices: corn dumplings stuffed with mountain vegetables, leg of lamb with Tibetan rub, and chicken soup with forest berries.

The architecture is said to be reminiscent of a mountain lodge that Emperors of the Qing dynasty frequented. The owners boast of hiring crews responsible for restoring the Forbidden City to build the Manchurian-styled retreats. Inside, the rooms are decorated with a Zen minimalism that is rustic but comfortable. One of the highlights is the Kang style stone bed, which originally would have been heated by the family’s cooking hearth attached to it.

But the real attraction is the property itself. Nestled in a river valley below the shadow of the Great Wall, the hotel’s rooms and pavilions offer breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, rivers and streams.

From the property, you can access two hikes. The Eastern Route is the more challenging trail, but the Western Route allows you to travel to Mutianyu, if you have the time and equipment; we found that upon reaching the eighth pavilion, the route became quite treacherous.

The trails along both sections are unrestored. This keeps the tourists away and affords the adventurous time to gaze out from watchtowers with no one in sight – just as the soldiers would have liked it!

The Western route climbs slowly uphill. On most sections, you can walk on the remains of the wall, but there are places where the deterioration is so bad, that you bypass the wall through the forest.

The Eastern Route is a vertical climb that then splits in a North and South direction. Legend has it that the contractor who built the Southern wall was beheaded: the general’s plans ran North. Hikes also follow the North route, high on the mountain ridge where you can gaze far out across the valley. Only three watchtowers can be reached before you come to an impasse in the trail.

Both climbs will take about half a day. But even on these treks, you only get a small taste of the sheer size of The Wall. It constantly snakes away from you into the distance … but it does this over 7,300 kilometers.

Back at the Ranch, I got some relief for my sore muscles with a Tibetan body massage. I’m not sure how often Tibetans practice this therapy, but for this infrequent hiker, the service was truly therapeutic.

Details: Red Capital Ranch, Yanxi Township, Huairou District. Rooms start at $200. Hiking from base of the hotel.

Back from Beijing, comrad

Sometimes a place seems to have a soul all its own; mystique laced with energy that keeps you in constant motion wandering from one fantastic spot to the other. Beijing is that kind of city.

Unlike other large Asian cities, Beijing hasn't been desecrated by Westernization. This is a Chinese city, first and foremost. There's just a handful of signs in English, and you can forget about getting a taxi driver who speaks a language other than Mandarin. In Beijing, you get the frenetic pace of progress mixed with remnants of China's long, cultural past.

Having said that, Beijing is at the tipping point: trendy restaurants are on the rise, hawker stalls are moving indoors to clean up the streets and there's even a good saturation of Starbucks on city blocks.

The worst part of Beijing is getting there. You can go to any of the China Travel branches, but make sure you bring proof of your itinerary and hotel bookings when you go. Bring lots of cash, too: all the rates have been raised for the Olympics, so a visa will set you back about $1600 HKD if you're an American like me.

My three-day itinerary included these highlights:

The Forbidden City - Built smack in the middle of Beijing, this compound that belonged to the Emporer is staggering in size. Do yourself a favor and splurge for the audio tour since there are few signs that will explain the history of the palaces and temples.

Green T. - This restaurant is the kind of party girl you hate: the one who is pretty and flaunts it. Green Tea is oh, so pretty, but it's pretentious to boot. Take for instance the menu .... it's written in poetry (I kid you not). However, the place will win you over first with it's food presentations - a tree with small butterflies in it accompanied spring rolls to the table - and then with the food - I'm still dreaming about the spare ribs that were reminiscent of oatmeal cookies. Sounds strange, but so good.

Dirt Market - This large, open air market only operates on the weekends, but it is a bonanza of pottery, art, handicrafts, Cultural Revolution paraphernalia, jewelry and ... well just about anything you can think of. (Brian picked up a pair of binoculars). The name reflects the pricing: it's dirt cheap! Well, at least most stuff is after you've bargained for it. Tell the taxi driver you want to go to Panjiayuan (the Chinese name for the market), and Skip the Silk Market, which is open all week, but has similar goods at three times the price.

Bei Hai Park - Even though Bei Hei is fast becoming the center of where expats eat and party, during the day it still belongs to The People. On the sunny day we were there, some were paddling along the large lake, others were just resting by the banks, while still others were singing opera and swimming in their Speedos like this crazy guy pictured.

798 Artist District -- Located in the Dashanzi district, this artists' enclave is testament to the forward-thinking momentum of the city - although there is a rumor that the area will be shuttered after the Olympics. That would be a shame, because you can spend the better part of a day flitting from shops to galleries to cafes here. The space that houses 798 used to be German weapons factories and there's still a stark, industrial feel to this place that's rich with creativity.

Dumplings - Going to Beijing and not having dumplings is like going to Philadelphia and not having a cheesesteak. These doughy delicacies can be found everywhere, but are best at the cheap corner stands.


Hutongs - Just a few years ago, hutongs, traditional Beijing homes built around a center courtyard, were a dying breed. Construction of hotels, apartments and shopping centers were destroying whole neighborhoods of these classic homes. Thanks to public outcry, however, the hutong is crawling back from the brink of extinction. In fact, many are being refurbished and even rebuilt. Go to areas east of the Forbidden City or near Bei Hai park to experience to hutong.

Bali bound

Bali isn't the polished, beach babe that you expect, but she certainly has her charms.

She can be crafty - think batik, basket weaving and wood carving.
She can be hardworking - rice fields and cattle take up all open space.
She can be laid back - courtesy of the surfer and backpack vibe.

Three days was hardly enough to see it all ... but I can always come calling on Bali again.

If you, too, are short on time, here are some highlights:

Do the pig -- Stuffed with spices and then spit roasted to a crispy perfection, Babi Berguling is a classic Balinese dish. Go to Warung Ibu Oka in Ubud. It isn't the fanciest, but it's been called the best. There you can grab a seat on the floor, sip on a lime juice and indulge in this sublime pork specialty.

Do the creatures - In Ubud, there is a Monkey Forest. Skip that, those creatures can be nasty, and head instead to the Bird & Reptile Sanctuary. They have a Komodo dragon, plus amazing owls, macaws, lizards and even large-winged bats that you can get up-close to.

Do the shopping -- The shopping alone is enough reason to go to Bali. This is an import mecca for many island-inspired home goods you see in stores. Bypass the markup and stock up on placemats, baskets, napkins, woodcarvings, textiles and more (I got napkin rings that sell at Pottery barn for $8 for $0.75). They also have some cute boutiques that specialize in island wear at a fraction of what it costs back home.

Do the fish -- Catch a taxi to Jimberan and then stroll into one of the many fresh seafood restaurants along the beach. How fresh you ask? Your fish is plucked from a tank and then grilled before your eyes.

One night (or three) in Bangkok

One of the things I like best about Hong Kong is that it's easy to get from here to there. Just a few hours by plane can take you to some exotic places. Take for instance, our weekend excursion ...

Three short hours and we were out of the gloom of winter and beside the pool of The Four Seasons in Bangkok. While The Four Seasons is usually a splurge, this location is surprisingly affordable and comes with the five-star service that earned the hotel its reputation.

When we got the urge to journey away from our lounge chairs, here's where we went:

Manohra Cruise -- Brian audiably moaned when I told him that I reserved a dinner cruise, but it turned out to be a great way to orientate ourselves with the city. The cruise is aboard a huge, teak, rice boat where a five-course meal of traditional Thai dishes is served. Along the way, you'll wind past famous sites like the Royal Palace, Wat Arun and even the Boathouse of the Royal barges. Dozens of similar dinner boats troll the river at night, but none are as nice. The Manohra sets a romantic stage with tables spaced far apart, dim candle lighting a served meal, not a buffet.

Ayutthaya -- When I heard Ayutthaya was a World Heritage site, I had to go. The city, which was the Thai capital for hundreds of years, features dozens of wat temples that were once covered in gold before the Burmese ransacked the capital.

Ayutthaya is a good hour from Bangkok, but it's easy find tour companies for the trip. Most will first bus you to the Royal Palace at Bang Pa-in, and then on to Ayutthaya. Our tour took us back to Bangkok via a leisurly river cruise and included lunch (a buffet).

Faces -- Modern meets traditional in this trendy restaurant/lounge/spa. In both the Indian and Thai restaurants, much time was paid to each detail in the room. Take for instance the large buddha in La Na Thai. It isn't cheap for Bangkok, but it is chic and tasty.